Sporicidin

<body topmargin=0 leftmargin=0 marginheight=0 marginwidth=0> <table cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0 border=0><tr> <td valign="top" rowspan="2" width=210 BGCOLOR="#99CC99" TEXT="#080000" bgproperties="fixed" background="0408dfc3.jpg"> <bR> <div> <I><B><IMG SRC="2be979b0.jpg" border=0 width="151" height="155" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></B></I></div> <div> <I><B>Sporicidin</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>Used in hospitals and by mold remediators for killing mold and bacteria.</B></I></div> </td> <td valign="top" colspan=2 height=82 BGCOLOR="#CCCC99" TEXT="#080000" bgproperties="fixed" background="0418dfe1esnpes.jpg"> <div> <I><B>Indoor Air LLC</B></I><FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#336699" FACE="Arial" ><A HREF="index.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Indoor Air LLC"><U><B>Home</B></U></A></FONT></div> <div> <A HREF="id17.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Credentials"><U><B>Credentials</B></U></A><B>   |   </B><A HREF="id48.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Educational Articles"><U><B>Educational Articles</B></U></A><B>   |   </B><A HREF="id36.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Air and Water Products"><U><B>Air and Water Products</B></U></A><B>   |   </B><A HREF="id90.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Consultations"><U><B>Consultations</B></U></A><B>   |   </B><A HREF="id22.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Contact / Fees"><U><B>Contact / Fees</B></U></A></div> </td> </tr><tr> <td valign="top" height=398 colspan=2 BGCOLOR="#CCCC99" TEXT="#080000" bgproperties="fixed" background="0418dfc3.jpg"> <div> <I>ions</I></div> <div> <I><B>Mold Cleaning Techniques</B></I><I><B> <A NAME="biocide"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="1" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" ></A></B></I></div> <bR> <div> by Building Inspector and Indoor Air Specialist, Dan Schilling</div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div> <I><B>Don't Ignore Mold</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <B>Mold gets exponentially worse with time and it can do so rapidly, therefore all areas of mold contamination should be addressed as quickly as possible.  This also means addressing water incursions immediately as mold can begin growing in as little as 24 hours after building materials or personal items have become wet.  Wetted items or building materials should be cleaned and dried immediately to prevent structural problems and/or health concerns.</B></div> <bR> <bR> <div> <I><B>Don't Touch Mold</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <B>Some species of mold are pathogenic, meaning they can cause infectious.  They can cause skin rashes, irritation, and fungal infections on open wounds.  You should never touch mold with bare hands or get it on your skin.  Whenever you clean mold, protective gloves and clothing should be worn.  The gloves should be water-proof, rubber type.  These will protect your skin from the mold, as well as from any cleaning products or biocides that may be used during the cleaning process.</B></div> <bR> <bR> <div> <I><B>Don't Get Mold In Your Eyes</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <B>When cleaning mold, protective eyewear, such as non-vented safety glasses or goggles, should be worn.  This will keep the mold out of your eyes which can help prevent eye irritation or infection, as well as protect your eyes from any cleaning products or biocides that may be used during the clean-up process.</B></div> <bR> <bR> <div> <I><B>Don't Breathe Mold</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <B>All molds are considered allergenic and some infectious and/or toxic, therefore inhalation should be altogether avoided.  A nose/mouth respirator mask should always be worn when cleaning mold.  The mask should have a NIOSH minimum rating of N95 and have an exhale port to keep the mask from becoming restricted inside due to build-up of respiring moisture.</B></div> <bR> <bR> <div> <I><B>Don't Disturb Mold</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <B>Mold spores are very much like the seeds of a dandelion, except they are microscopic in size.  If you bump or shake any items or building materials that have mold on them, particularly dry mold, the microscopic spores can easily be released into the air which can spread the contamination to other locations in a building.  Extreme caution should be taken when handling all contaminated items or materials.  If you will be destructing walls or ceilings to remove mold-infected building materials, it is recommended to seal off the area, including air vents, to help prevent the spreading of mold spores. It is also recommended to exhaust these contained areas to the outdoors in order to create negative air pressure inside the containment area.  This helps to prevent mold from leaking out of the containment area.</B></div> <bR> <bR> <div> <I><B>Don't Exceed Your Limitations</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <B>While there are exceptions to these rules, in general, if a mold-contaminated area is larger than 10 square feet in size, you should consult with a mold specialist to determine proper remediation procedures.  If the area is larger than 100 square feet, you should have the mold professionally remediated.  You should however keep in mind that in some instances, even small areas can be very dangerous if not properly handled.  This is particularly true with toxic or pathogenic molds.  If you are in doubt, you should hire a professional remediator who will use the proper equipment and methods for safe removal.</B></div> <bR> <bR> <div> <I><B>Don't Mess With Toxic Mold</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <B>Some molds are toxic and particularly dangerous to your health.  In addition to respiratory problems and infections, some of the symptoms can include internal organ damage, memory loss, cancer and death.  It is also possible to suffer permanent health problems from a single acute exposure to toxic mold.  If you are in doubt, you should have the mold tested to determine the type(s) or have the mold professionally remediated, following a proper mold and moisture inspection.</B></div> <bR> <bR> <div> <I><B>Don't Risk Your Health</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <B>If you have had mold tested and have discovered it to be of a toxic variety, you should consider having a professional do the remedial work, following a proper assessment from a mold inspector.  Additionally, whether the mold is allergenic, pathogenic, or toxigenic, if you are pregnant, lactating, have allergies, asthma, chemical sensitivities, or a compromised immune system, you should have a professional do the mold remediation work for you after a proper assessment.</B></div> <bR> <bR> <div> <I><B>Spotting Mold</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <B>Sometimes mold is easy to spot.  It is often a contrasting color to the material it is growing on.  Other times it is almost invisible.  If you are trying to spot mold, you will find it helpful to use a flash light and shine the light beam across the suspected surface, and not at it.  Due to the fact that all molds are three-dimensional, it will become readily visible with the cross-lighting, regardless of the color.  </B><B>If you have any doubt as to whether you have discovered all of the mold, you should consider having a professional assessment from a mold inspector.  Keep in mind that mold remediators (cleaners) and industrial hygienists (testers) and not qualified building inspectors, though some purport to be so in hopes that you will call them first.</B></div> <bR> <bR> <div> <I><B>Detergent and Water</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <B>If mold is growing on a smooth, hard, non-porous surface, ordinary detergent and water will usually suffice for cleaning.  Wipe these surfaces slowly while frequently rinsing the wash cloth.  </B></div> <bR> <bR> <div> <I><B>Chlorine Bleach</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <B>Common household bleach (chlorine) is an effective biocide for killing mold.  It should be noted that full strength bleach should never be used.  Contrary to popular thinking, more is not better.  The solution should be approximately 10% bleach to 90% water with a 10 minute minimum contact time.  Keep in mind that bleach can discolor personal property and building materials.  Caution should be used for the items being cleaned, as well as the areas around the cleaning project.  The bleach solution can be used by either spraying or wiping.  When wiping surfaces, the cloth or sponge should be midway between wet and wrung out.  When spraying surfaces, it is important to adjust the sprayer on the nozzle to the mist setting and not the stream setting, otherwise water droplets can dislodge spores and send them into the surrounding air.  The mist setting allows the mold to gently become dampened and helps to prevent the spreading of spores while soaking or cleaning surfaces.  </B></div> <bR> <div> <B>Bleach solutions are recommended only for non-porous surfaces and should never be used on porous materials.  Because the chlorine in bleach water solutions evaporates as a gas faster than the water it is mixed with, it can leave a significant amount of residual moisture behind. This moisture compels the </B><B>regrowth of m</B><B>old residing within </B><B>porous materials</B><B>.  A professional grade </B><B>surfactant </B><B>biocide is a better choice for use on porous surfaces such as wood products, wallboard, or concrete.  </B><B>Chlorine gasses are an irritant and should be avoided with proper ventilation.  </B></div> <bR> <bR> <div> <I><B>Chemical Biocides</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <B>There are biocides available which not only kill mold, but help prevent the recurrence of mold.  They can be used for general mold cleaning, the same as bleach solutions, but will more effectively penetrate, kill and sanitize mold on porous surfaces.  Surfaces should be kept damp with the biocide for at least 10 minutes for the </B><B>best result.  On some porous surfaces, second or third successive applications may be necessary to </B><B>maintain the required 10 minutes of dampness and ensure </B><B>deep penetration into the porous surface.  </B><B>Liquid biocides can be wiped on or sprayed on in the same manner as bleach solutions.  </B><B>Avoid aerosol type disinfectants or products that contain alcohol.  </B><B>The biocide should also be registered with the EPA for use in occupied spaces.  </B></div> <bR> <div> <B>I have researched biocides and settled on a product called "Sporicidin."  I trust this product and am now a registered dealer, providing Sporicidin for clients and mold remediators, and I also use it to sanitize my inspection and testing equipment.  </B></div> <bR> <div> <B>Sporicidin has all eight features I determined were important when working with mold.  First, it is registered with the EPA for use indoors, including inside of air ducts.  Second, it does not stain surfaces like bleach or other biocides.  Third, it provides a very effective kill rate on sanitized surfaces.  Fourth, after pre-cleaning procedures, it leaves a residual bacteriostatic effect for up to six months.  Fifth, it has surfactant qualities which improve sanitizing penetration.  Sixth, it has a clean residual aroma.  Seventh, it does not increase humidity like bleach solutions.  And eighth, it has a pH level of only 7.5 which means it can be painted over with most paints.   </B></div> <bR> <div> <B>The primary reason I recommend Sporicidin for mold remediation projects is because of its surfactant ability to soak into porous surfaces such as mold contaminated gypsum wall board (GWB) or oriented strand board (OSB).  This is an important benefit when GWB or OSB still has its structural integrity and has not disintegrated or delaminated from water damage.  </B></div> <bR> <div> <B>Cleaning and sanitizing these building materials is not only less expensive than replacing walls, ceilings, flooring, or roof sheathing, but it reduces the likelihood of recontamination.</B></div> <bR> <div> <B>This is because GWB and OSB already have mold spores present in the materials they are made of when new.  They only require water or high humidity to germinate the mold inside.  Cleaning and sanitizing the existing materials provides a greater resistance to mold than brand new building materials.  The University of Maryland and Georgia State University have proven this to be true.  </B></div> <bR> <bR> <div> <I><B>Vacuuming</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <B>All loose or d</B><B>ry mold can be vacuumed from many surfaces and fabrics. </B><B> Mold, whether alive or dead, still has the potential of causing health problems.  Therefore, areas of mold contamination should be carefully vacuumed.  Never vacuum mold without the use of HEPA (High Efficiency Particulate Air) or similarly rated filter media in the vacuum cleaner.  Common vacuum cleaner filters and bags do not have the ability to trap mold spores and will only blow the spores out and around the building, thus spreading the contamination further.</B></div> <bR> <div> <B>Mold contaminated carpet needs special attention with HEPA vacuuming, biocidal treatment, steam cleaning, and followed again by HEPA vacuuming after drying.  This process will likely require a professional cleaning company.  Heavily contaminated carpet should simply be discarded, particularly if it is older carpet, if it has been in contact with sewage back-up, or if it has been used over a concrete floor on grade.   </B><B>Unless professional barrier and air pressure systems are used, mold should always be sanitized before vacuuming.</B></div> <bR> <bR> <div> <I><B>Ozone</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <B>On June 26, 2001, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration formally approved the use of ozone in both air and water as an anti-microbial agent.  </B><B>The drawback with mold remediation is that ozone can kill mold, but it does not clean the mold.  </B><B>Therefore, ozone should only be used </B><B>as a finishing step following </B><B>traditional cleaning methods that have been performed on visible mold.  </B></div> <bR> <div> <B>Sometimes however, it is simply impractical or impossible to clean every area or </B><B>small crevice </B><B>where mold spores can hide.  Examples of this would be in air conditioner A-coils, inside of air ducts, or in </B><B>difficult locations within </B><B>crawl spaces or attics.  These are the areas where ozone can work well on its own or in combination with other methods.  </B></div> <bR> <div> <B>In order to sanitize these or other difficult areas, an ozone purifier is typically used on its highest setting and the area is left unoccupied while the sanitizing is being performed.  This process can take a matter of minutes to several days depending on the area of contamination and the power of the ozone generator.  Follow the instructions on the ozone air purifier.</B></div> <bR> <bR> <div> <I><B>Discarding</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <B>Depending on the severity of the contamination </B><B>or the condition of the building materials being cleaned, </B><B>it may simply be best to discard mold contaminated materials.  The root structure of the mold may penetrate far below the visible surface of the material making thorough sanitizing nearly impossible.  This is particularly true with heavily contaminated wall board and manmade wood products which are commonly used in home construction and furniture.  </B></div> <bR> <div> <B>If the items do not have historical or sentimental value, it is often best for these materials to be carefully enclosed in plastic trash bags and disposed of in the common trash.  Dampening contaminated materials with a spray mister, filled with any kind of liquid, prior to handling them, can help prevent dry spores from spreading into the air during handling.  A professional mold remediator will know the techniques and own the equipment that may be necessary for hygienic removal of damaged and contaminated building materials.</B></div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div> <I><B>Sporicidin</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <B>I always tell people if bleach and water solutions can be used, do it because it is basically free. However, if you will be working with mold infected materials that must be protected from the affects of bleach, or working with mold on porous materials, you can have </B><B>Sporicidin sent directly to your home.</B></div> <bR> <bR> <div> <I><IMG SRC="1e5b2b60.jpg" border=0 width="178" height="182" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></I></div> <bR> <div> <B>Gallons   $46.00 ea.          85 Towelettes   $32.00 ea.          22 oz Bottles   $16.00 ea.</B></div> <bR> <div> <B>For convenience of shipping, and to ensure you do not run out during a remediation project, Sporicidin is shipped </B><B>only </B><B>in gallons.  </B></div> <bR> <div> <B>If you are a builder or mold remediator needing larger quantities of Sporicidin, ask about available discounts.</B></div> <bR> <div> <B>Protective clothing, gloves and masks can be purchased at most hardware stores but Sporicidin must be purchased through an authorized dealer.  </B></div> <bR> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id36_order_products.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Air and Water Products"><U><B>Place an Order</B></U></A></div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id36_products.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Air and Water Products"><U><B>Back to Products</B></U></A><B>          </B></div> <bR> <div> <A HREF="id48.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Educational Articles"><U><B>Back to the IAQ Articles</B></U></A></div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div> <I><B>Share</B></I></div> <div> <I><B>indoorair.com</B></I></div> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="173d38d0.jpg" border=0 width="211" height="141" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> <I><B>with those you care about.</B></I></div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div> <B>©  Copyright 2008   Indoor Air LLC,  All Rights Reserved</B></div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> </td> </tr></table></body>